Himalaya 2011: Alan's Ready To Climb, Death On ManasluPosted on the 03 May 2011 by Kungfujedi @Kungfujedi
As I mentioned yesterday, work continues to progress at a steady pace on the South Side of Everest, and with the lines now fixed to the South Col, a steady stream of Sherpas are now shuttling gear up to Camp 4. If the weather holds, it is starting to look like the route will be set all the way to the summit by this weekend, and we could have guides on top of the mountain by Friday or Saturday. That will clear the way for the climbers to finish up their acclimatization rounds and start the waiting game for a weather window sometime around the middle of the month.
Our friend Alan Arnette posted a nice update from the mountain yesterday that helps to fill in some of the gaps as to what is happening at the moment. At the time that he wrote the post, Alan was back in BC, but is preparing to go back up the mountain to Camp 3 today. On his last acclimatization round, he went up and "touched" C3, but spent nights in Camps 1 and 2 along the way. This time he'll actually stay at C3.
Alan also notes that the last rotation on the mountain didn't go well for his health. He's been battling an upper respiratory lung infection and it made it very challenging to climb up to 7200 meters (23,621 ft). Once he returned to lower elevations, he was feeling much better however, and is now feeling strong and ready to back up. He also noted that he has changed his strategy for climbing the mountain this time out, and is spending extra nights at Camp 1 in effort to conserve energy on the push at higher altitudes.
The weather continues to be odd, with snow at strange times of the day and colder than normal temperatures. Upper portions of the route are said to be more exposed than normal, despite plenty of snow, which can be a concern for the climbers who have to scramble up bare rock while wearing crampons. Those spikes are designed for ice and snow and don't exactly provide good footing on hard surfaces.
The plan is to now spend a few days going back up to Camp 3 before descending to EBC once again. After that, it is all about the weather window, and considering this is Alan's fourth time on Everest, he knows all to well what that waiting game is all about.
Considering the great work that Alan is doing to raise funds for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund, I'd personally like to see nothing more than him standing on top of Everest at last.
Other news of note, ExWeb is reporting that the Iranian team that summitted Manaslu last Friday lost a team member on the descent. Isa Mir-Shekari succumbed to altitude sickness at Camp 4 (7460m/24,475 ft) on that mountain on April 29th.
Also, David Liano, who was climbing Everest from the North Side has now returned to Kathmandu where he is battling what is described as a mild case of HACE. He now hopes to recover fully and return to the mountain, although he is shifting to the South Side for the attempt. Hopefully he'll be well enough to give it a go.
That's it for now, but stay tuned. Things are about to get very busy in the Himalaya. The next few weeks will be crazy with lots of news from the big peaks.
These articles might interest you :
Crime Fiction5*s The genealogical expert Jefferson Tayte is back! I love this series which has taken me back to historical eras I know little about while tellin... Read more14 hours, 33 minutes ago by Cleopatralovesbooks
(Photograph by Abhay Tiwari) Please, talk to me about who you were before the walls were painted blue; Tell me the bruises, the aches, and time just added... Read more15 hours, 40 minutes ago by Shantam Sahai
DIARIES, SELF EXPRESSION
15 hours, 56 minutes ago by Vickilane
I’ve moaned about it enough, so you’ll all know by know that despite having graduated last summer I’m still studying. I’ve chosen a career path which pretty muc... Read more16 hours, 55 minutes ago by Ninegrandstudent
FASHION, FOOD & DRINK, LIFESTYLE
I love Chicago. I have family there that I'm normally always looking for a way to be with. And I have friends that I don't see nearly enough. So when I first... Read more18 hours, 10 minutes ago by Eastofmidnight
Whenever I have stale bread I want to make one of two things . . . either I want to make a bread pudding, or I want to make French Toast. Today the French... Read more18 hours, 56 minutes ago by Mariealicerayner
FOOD & DRINK, RECIPES
(Image Credit) Like most things in life, exercise can be a dangerous game. It’s very easy to injure yourself while you’re exercising; if you fail to take the... Read more22 hours, 52 minutes ago by Peppertan
MOST POPULAR FROM OUTDOORS
- Traveling to California - The Lost Coast Trail with Tepui Tents by Kungfujedi
- MTBO Camp 17 – Route Choice Training #2 by Stodge
- MTBO Camp 17 – Middle Race #2 Svinklov by Stodge
- Video: Life at Camp 2 on Everest by Kungfujedi
MOST RECOMMENDED IN OUTDOORS
- Elizabeth Vizza Statement on Winthrop Square Vote by Fopg
- Sri Chinmoy Ten Day And Six Day Races 2017 – Results by Abichal
- Himalaya Sprint 2017: Kilian Jornet Reveals Plans, Sherpa Injured on the Everest by Kungfujedi
- Fearful Dog by Hikingwithheather