Midnight Sun, Finland
My husband's Aunt Carolyn traveled to Finland in 1952 and wrote about the trip in her memoir. Here is her report.In 1952, three friends and I decided to attend the Olympics in Helsinki. We flew to London. Then, by train we went through France and Germany. Just below the Danish border, we stopped at Flensberg, a small city, to buy new bicycles. The shopkeeper had only one in stock, but if we could stay overnight, he could get us three more.
Flower Market, Helsinki Waterfront
The next day on our new bikes, we crossed into Denmark, a cyclist’s paradise. The land is so flat no pushing up hills was necessary. In Copenhagen, we found that the first flight we could get to Helsinki was ten days before the Opening Day of the Olympics. We took that flight and spent the ten days seeing something of Finland. We bought train tickets as far north as the train went. From there, we rode the bus to the end of its line into Finnish Lapland. We had not realized the extent of the Nazi occupation which had burned over most of northern Finland. Finland was just beginning reconstruction.The train still burned wood, so smoke and dust were constantly with us. The Finns are normally very clean people, so every hour “train maids” would come through the coach to dust and clean. The next hour the seats and windows were just as smokey.
Far north Finland--End of the Bus Line
We rode all day through miles of green forest, the “green gold” of Finland. At the end of the first day, we stayed at a hostel, which was far better than others we had lived in. The second day we were booked at a new hotel in Rovaniemi, right on the Arctic Circle. When we left the train, no hotel or any other person or building was in sight. We waited a short time, wondering what to do. Then a police “paddy wagon” drove up to the train platform. We thought they had come for us. By pantomime, we learned they had been sent to pick up some drunks, but we persuaded them to take us to the hotel. The police demurred at first, finally deciding to leave the drunks, and we drove up the hill from where we could see the town of Rovaniemi. They deposited us in front of the hotel. I wonder what the hotel people thought of our unusual arrival. We continued the next day by bus. It was also a pre-war model and broke down frequently. We did not mind this as some of my most pleasant memories are of meeting people who gathered around, offering advice about the broken vehicle, sometimes offering us a cup of coffee at their homes.
Reindeer
Our destination was a simple lodge far to the north in Lapland. Even though we arrived at midnight, we climbed up a small mountain behind the lodge, anxious to see the midnight sun, which was hidden from view at the lodge. The permafrost and mosquitoes made the climb uncomfortable, but we took pictures of the sun at 1:00 a.m. and saw a herd of reindeer.
1952 Summer Olympics, Helsinki, Finland
Our return journey brought us to Helsinki in time for the Opening Day of the Olympics. Paavo Nurmi, the famous Finnish runner, had the honor of opening the XV Olympiad. He carried the torch around the track and then ascended the tower to light the flame, which burns constantly until the games end. We looked anxiously for our flag in the colorful parade of athletes. We could see the parade was nearing the end and no U.S.A. in sight. Then, there it was, and such an uproar rose from the crowd. We had forgotten the names were in the Finnish language, and U.S.A. became Uni des Etats.
Boarding TWA for Europe and Olympics, 1952
Perhaps the original intrepid tourist was Carolyn Arnold, my husband’s aunt. A single school teacher in Des Moines, she began traveling abroad when she was in her forties, beginning with a bicycling trip through Ireland in 1950. She went on from there to spend a year as a Fulbright Exchange Teacher in Wales, to more trips to Europe and beyond, and eventually became a tour leader, taking all her nieces and nephews (including Art) on her travels. When she retired from teaching, she wrote of her experiences in a memoir called Up and Down and Around the World with Carrie. Today, as I read of her travels, I marvel at her spirit of adventure at a time when women did not have the independence they do today.All photos by Carolyn T. Arnold.
