East Side Tavern, one of a new breed of pubs with high-end food.
I've noticed a shift in the Dublin dining scene, it's ever so slight but the change is becoming perceptible. Food in pubs. I'm not talking about pub grub or even gastro pubs but cracking good bistro style food that's creative, inspired and with deft attention to detail. This change is ever so obvious in East Side Tavern.
The bar is beautiful. They've achieved wondrous things with just bottles, shelves and inventive lighting. There's a few quirks around the place too as well as plenty of comfortable seating. We were eating upstairs where it's brighter and the music is a bit lower!
Octopus and Crab Croquettes €11
I fell in love with Niall O'Sullivan's cooking during his tenure at Isabel's. I had thought that it was a perfect venue for his food so it took me a while to get used to this new hip location but I'm nothing if not adaptable, especially when it comes to food. M went for what can only be described as one of Niall's signature dishes, in fact, when I saw it on the menu I knew exactly who was in the kitchen! The octopus and crab croquettes were just as delicious as I remember.
Chargrilled Purple Sprouting Brocolli €8
I thought it was really brave that two of five the starters on the menu were vegetarian. It takes a lot of brazen confidence in one's ability to have just broccoli or carrots as the main constituents of a dish! I went for the broccoli and was quite impressed. It was slightly let down by a less than zingy goats cheese but the textures and presentation couldn't be faulted.
Chargrilled Rib Eye €26
We both opted for the chargrilled rib eye which is cooked sous-vide before being given a delicious charred skin. I was warned that it might not come as rare as I expected but it would be oh-so-juicy to make up for it, they didn't lie! The cafe de Paris butter gave the dish a nice eastern lift though it meant there was no sauce to dip my chips into. I survived!
Chocolate Mousse with Milk Parfait €7
Roasted Pear €7
We finished off with two decent desserts which I can only describe as highly stylised but there was substance with the chicness too. I really loved the milk parfait's creamy texture and I nearly licked the brown butter caramel off the plate. We washed the whole meal down with a very acceptable bottle of South African Chenin Blanc. There are plenty of craft beers to try too if that's what you desire.
As we finished up our meal the place took on a decidedly more pub than bistro feel and this is perhaps the only thing I have to lament about, I would have loved to have lingered over another bottle of wine for a couple of chilled-out hours but that wouldn't pay the bills and in this ever competitive industry that's the most important thing.
East Side Tavern
104 - 105 Lower Lesson Street
Dublin 2
01 678 9529
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