Destinations Magazine

Bigarrade in the 17th: A New Chef, New Items (for the Most Part) and New Feel.

By Johntalbott

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6.8 Bigarrade, 106 rue Nollet in the 17th, (Metro: Brochant), closed Saturday lunch and Sundays has been under the control of a new Japanese chef - one Yasuhiro Kanayama - ex of Le Bistral up the street, since February.  The front is still minimalist, the interior lit by those hanging lights Colette hates and the bathroom features drawings of branches that look all the world like shadows.  There are two differently priced lunches and dinners and a wine-pairing for an additional 20 E.  We had plenty with the 35 E lunch, even though the ten plates were "small," I cannot imagine stuffing in more. 

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As under Christophe Pele, it's a "forced" or "surprise" menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English, roll out one after another after the amuse gueuele of the only holdover from the old carte - foccacia with tart strong great Napoliatan olive oil.  Rather than detail each, here's the cavalcade:

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A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots, PAUSE at this point my cloth napkin fell on the floor and was immediately replaced - EARNING A POINT - then barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage (the only dish not special), a pineapple granite, a creme, a cube of mango on things, some milk ice cream with black olives [sic], chocolate tart, and (whew) vanilla almond macarons.

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With a bottle of a terrific L'Erèbe which was non-vintage Loire but gutsy and tasty, no bottled water and one coffee our bill was 115 E.

Go?  Goodness yes.

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