SANKT EMMERAMSMÜHLE, a restaurant and beer garden tucked into the lush greenery of Munich, features a braying donkey within earshot and swanky sports cars parading by. It goes without saying that its staff wear traditional Bavarian garb, called Tracht. For the men that means lavishly embroidered Lederhosen, short or knee-length breeches made of leather, and for the women a brightly coloured Dirndl consisting of a tight bodice, a blouse with puffy sleeves, a full skirt and an apron. Perhaps more surprisingly, most patrons wear it, too.The many other beer gardens in the area present much the same sight. So do wedding parties, dinners, concerts and galas. Teenage boys have been spotted sporting their Lederhosen at the disco.It was not always so and reflects a revival that has now been going on for about half a decade, says Hans Köhl of the Salzburger Heimatwerk, an Austrian organisation that supports local customs. Tracht is now worn by the rich, the famous, and hoi polloi alike. Cognoscenti…
