Destinations Magazine

AG in the 6th: Each Time is Better Than the Last. Alan Geaam is a Culinary Genius and the Perfect Host.

By Johntalbott

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AG, 2, rue Clement in the 6th is a study in contrasts - approaching from the Rue de Seine it's fancy-schmancy but from the Rue de Montfaucon one is confronted by a horde of 40 year old male SDF/immigrants waiting for a Soup Kitchen/Soupe Populaire to open.  We entered and M. Geamm greated us with coupes and parmesan cookies turned black with squid ink and then mini-cups of cold chestnut soup - the perfect host was at it again.  His lunch "menu" here is astonishingly priced (22 for 2, 28 E for 3 courses) as is his prior haunt the Auberge Nicolas Flamel in the 3rd where it was 18.50 and 25 E.)  However, the carte beckoned to us.

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Our relative, facing a big dinner tonight declined a first but Colette ordered two, her first a carpaccio of scallops with mango, radishes and lime and I ordered the raviolis of crustaceans - which M. Geaam advised me gently, knowing my predilections, to order instead the apple tart with sauteed foie gras - Wow, Zow and Hooey!  Was he right.

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Then our relative had a fish, merlu was it?, with a sweet potato puree and terrific coco beans; Colette finally got her raviolis of crustaceans in a similar langoustine-based  bouillon; and I had incredible sweetbreads with a celery puree and terrific asparagus (hey, it's March).

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To finish up, Colette had yuzu, meringue, a quartered sable and sorbet and our relative, the chocolate with caramel and croustillant grué, which I looked up in Robert & Collins = woman of easy virtue - Whoa! - no, must be the last definition = tart, hoho.

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With our coffees, M. Geaam served us almonds, chocolate and sort-of pound cake.  Our bill with the 3 coupes and one glass of wine offered as well as a bottle of Bordeaux bio/natural/etc/etc and no bottled water but three coffees, was 133 E, thus 88.66 E a couple.  dB level 90.8 d/t 6 pesky fellow French ladies.


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